the broken parts thread...^^

[bad_brain]

dammit, seems I have to get a new seatpost clamping:

[floodhound2]

That sucks BB, at least it wont be expensive. I need some new front forks for my rig. Seems like I blew a seal last week because one tube is leaking fluid and the forks bottom out easily now. Problem is forks are costly.

[bad_brain]

yeah, the clamp sucked anyway because it was too weak, after 50km I always had to adjust the seatpost height again because it slipped down 1-2cm, will look for a high quality one now, it'll be either a Syntace- or a Salsa-one....

hmmm....a whole new fork because of a broken seal?
don't know what fork you have, but have a look at this shop, they sell fork seals:
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[DNR]

BB you probably scuffed the shit out of your seat tube as well. Going to have to refinish the inside of the tube with some sanding..

I broke a handlebar at 37mph on a downhill/ditch apex - flew right into the ground at 37mph, dented my Troy Lee helmet, glasses cut my face, - true face plant. It was a Thermoplastic/Carbon Fiber Answer handlebar..

And Floodie, yea sounds like you need a rebuild. Unless you want to upgrade to a stiffer/longer travel anyways.You should have a very strong hub on the front fork as the front fork flexes so much, causing these blowouts. If you have a good hub, say a Wilderness hub (a monster, bullet proof!) it keeps the forks aligned and working together. Cheap hubs flex the tubes and give uneven pressures to one side of the fork.

DNR

[bad_brain]

good idea DNR... I am planning to get a new seatpost and saddle anyway, I'll go for the Ritchey WCS series again because I am totally satisfied with their handlebar and stem. at this opportunity I will replace the clamp and prepare the seat tube...

[floodhound2]

Yea fellas my front forks are shit! I need to replace them with some monster travel maybe 5 to 7 inches. I cant adjust shit on them and they are so soft even on the hardest setting.

My hubs are solid they wont be broke anything soon (fingers crossed). And hell my new tires I bought last year are looking like they need to be replaced.

I am looking at these http://www.bikeparts.com/search_results ... =BPC136188

[bad_brain]

oh, ok, if the fork is crap anyway it makes no sense to waste time and money by repairing the seal....really nice one you've picked there, I've read some really good things already about Manitou forks on the MTB forum I've joined a little ago...
sadly a bit too pricy for me..

I am thinking about a Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 2, but it will take a while until I can afford it because it only makes sense in combination with new wheels (Spank Subrosa are on my list), I want to get away from the thin quick release skewers I have now and go for 20mm axles...

[bad_brain]

YAY! finally my new pedals arrived! took more than a week, my preferences are simply too special I guess...

first my old pedals, the bearings of the right one were damaged because of all the jumping around I guess, on the weekend I also managed to kill the bearings of the left one with a failed bunnyhop over a tree that was lying across the path (I kinda landed on the tree with the pedal). cheap NC-17 ones (STD 2), they were worth the price (about 40 Euro), but for really rough action the bearings are too weak:


and here my new ones from NS-Bikes (Aerial Pro), more pricy (100 Euro) but you can see the way better quality with just one look, also the bearings are a lot better, and look how flat they are:

[DNR]

I did save the broken handlebar, that was a classic crash.

Floodie, I might suggest you look for someone selling a complete bike and strip it for parts. because yea, a front fork - like rockshox judy XC was about $275 back in my day.
2.75 travel. Longer travel fork needs to be stronger, hence more costly.

Defo' on stronger petals - off road cranking is just so abusive to petals - I am suprised no one broke a crank arm yet.

DNR